Sunday, January 13, 2008

Imeldirific

(Photo by Stephen Wallace)

Last Tuesday, as Ben and I ate breakfast before the BCS game (which feels weird because, frankly, morning just isn't the time for football, but what can you do?), we found ourselves dining in the same fine establishment of Imelda Marcos, former first lady and Leyte congresswoman. Seventy-nine years old and the woman still has it. I couldn't wait for my next Carlos Celdran tour of the world of Imelda as seen through her legacy of architecture at the Cultural Center of the Philippines and the Coconut Palace. (Unfortunately, the Coconut Palace was closed for inventory, but I plan to take my parents on this tour when they visit, so I'll get another chance.)


Imelda is a much lampooned figure in the world press, particularly for her well-known extensive shoe collection (over 1000 pairs were left in the presidential palace when they fled in 1986). However, that caricature belies a more significant controversial legacy in the Philippines. And whether you love her or hate her, most people would agree that she did more than just accumulate shoes.

People rightly decry the corruption and human rights violations of her husband's (and her) administration, but it is also important to understand that many, many people here still love her. It's not a strange celebrity kind of "love to hate her" kind of thing--they feel genuine affection, respect, and admiration for her. Carlos's tour manages to plow the middle ground, giving you an understanding of the reasons why people fall into both camps. Particularly as a hero to the lower classes (since Imelda was really an outsider to the traditional power elite in the Philippines), her strength and ambition--for both herself and her country--are truly impressive (if occasionally extreme).

Filipinos take great pride in the fact that a peaceful "People Power" revolution toppled the martial rule of the Marcoses and returned the country to democracy. But it says something that Imelda has since run for president twice, and neither time did she finish last. Moreover, she was elected as a congresswoman from her home province for one term in 1995. She still sleeps only two hours a night, a habit she picked up as a young congressman's wife, and is still seen around town holding court. The woman's got grit.

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